Early Civilization,
Revolution
The Ancient Gauls and the Modern French
prehistoric menhirs left behind by the ancient Celts who once inhabited Brittany. The menhirs, which are
numerous (more than 3,000), are located in Carnac, a coastal town in Brittany. The purpose of the Carnac stones
remains unknown.
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However, some historians think that the monuments were prehistoric calendars
used by the druids.
The Renaissance
With England no longer a threat, France prospered during the early 1500s.
King Francois I was a great art lover. He hired various great Italian
Renaissance artists to come to France. Many of the artists built splendid palaces, or chateaux, particularly in the
Loire Valley region, where the king himself lived.
In the mid-1500s, conflicts occurred between the growing number of Huguenots (French Protestants) and Catholics.
This led to the Wars of Religion, a series of bloody battles fought among members of both religions.
The violence continued until 1589, when Henri of Navarre was crowned Henri IV, king of France. Henri IV ended
the Wars of Religion and stabilized the country when he signed the Edict of Nantes in 1598. This edict was a
written command that guaranteed religious freedom to all French citizens.
The earliest traces of humans to be found on the territory that became known as France date back to 90,000 BC.
However, the first records of a human civilization date back to around 25,000 BC, when a Stone Age people known
as Cro Magnons developed a sophisticated culture in this area.[1]
Renaissance Costume Clothing
At the consecration of Louis IX., in 1226, the nobles wore the cap(_mortier_) trimmed with fur; the bishops wore the cope and the mitre, and
carried the crosier. Louis IX., at the age of thirteen, is represented, with his hair short,
and wearing a red velvet cap, a tunic, and over this a cloak open at the
chest, having long sleeves, which are slit up for the arms to go through;
this cloak, or surcoat, is trimmed with ermine in front, and has the
appearance of what we should now call a fur shawl. The young King has long
hose, and shoes similar in shape to high slippers. In the same painting
Queen Margaret, his wife, wears a gown with tight bodice opened out on the
hips, and having long and narrow sleeves; she also has a cloak embroidered with fleurs-de-lis, the long sleeves of which are slit up and bordered
with ermine; a kind of hood, much larger than her head, and over this a
veil, which passes under the chin without touching the face; the shoes are
long, and seem to enclose the feet very tightly.[2]
The Gauls
although the Romans believed they were primitive wild men, the scraggly haired Gauls were far from uncivilized.
The Gauls invented soap and wooden barrels. They made ornate jewelry out of gold and traveled in carts with
metal wheels. However, after years of conflict, the Gauls' chief, Vercingetorix, was defeated by Julius Caesar
in 52 BC.
Gaul became a province of Rome, and the Gauls became Roman citizens. Over the next few centuries, the Gauls
farmed and traded the many objects they made. They were exposed to Roman culture, learned to speak Latin, and
converted to Christianity. They traveled on Roman built roads (some of which still exist) and worked and lived
in Roman built cities such as Lutetia (Paris) and Lugdunum (Lyon). In many ancient French cities such as Arles,
Marseilles, and even Paris, the ruins of Roman buildings and monuments are still standing.
The Franks
The Roman Empire began its decline in the third century In the fifth century Germanic groups from the east began
to invade Gaul. The most powerful of these invaders were the Franks, from which the name "France" originated.
The king of the Franks, Clovis, was crowned as the first king of France in 485. He became the first king of the
Merovingian dynasty. This was France's first royal family in which power was passed from father to son. Clovis
converted to Christianity and succeeded in unifying most of Gaul. In 507, he made the tiny trading town of Paris
into the capital of France.
Over time, the Merovingian dynasty became weak. In 732, the king's chancellor, Charles Martel, was responsible
for turning back Arabic Muslims who had invaded France from Spain. In 754, Martel's son, Pepin, had himself
crowned king by the pope. This was the beginning of the Carolingian dynasty and of the idea of divine monarchy in
which the king was seen as a direct link to God.
Pepin's son, Charlemagne, expanded his control over all of Gaul and, soon after, much of Europe. In 800,
he was crowned emperor of the Holy Roman
Empire, an area that included present day France, Germany and Italy. However, when Charlemagne died,
the Holy Roman Empire and France split into tiny kingdoms ruled by local counts and dukes. By the time the
last Carolingian king died in 987, the French monarchy (based in Paris) was very weak.
Revolution
The successors of the Sun King, Louis XV and Louis XVI, had to struggle with the growing resentment of
their citizens, who demanded more rights.
As a result of war, France lost important colonies in North America and India to England. Financial problems
led the court to increase taxes. This unfair measure only deepened people's anger against the monarchy.
The resentment grew, and on July 14, 1789, hundreds of armed Parisians invaded the Bastille, a prison that
was a symbol of the French kings' unjust rule. This event marked the beginning of the French Revolution.
Throughout the countryside, peasants attacked aristocratic lords' chateaux.
In August, the Declaration of the Rights of Man and of the Citizen was written and adopted. The document
included the famous French concepts of Liberte, Egalite, et Fraternite (Liberty Equality and Brotherhood),
which all French citizens treasure to this day. Both the revolution and the declaration served as inspirations
to many other countries and their politicians for example, to Thomas Jefferson, when he wrote the United States'
Declaration of Independence.
In 1792, Louis XVI and his extravagant wife, Marie Antoinette, were thrown into jail. For a while, France
was controlled by a mild group of revolutionaries known as the Girondists. However, there was fighting between
the Girondists and the more radical revolutionaries, the Jacobins. Eventually, the Jacobins seized control of France.
They declared the First
Republic the first of France's five democratic governments, each with its own constitution. Led by three radicals,
Robespierre, Danton, and Marat, the chaotic Reign of Terror began and was characterized by mass executions,
bloody street battles, and much fear.
In 1793, Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette were executed by guillotine, as were many others at Place
de la Revolution (today Place de la Concorde) in the center of Paris. Murders and executions continued to
claim many lives, including those of many Jacobin leaders. Finally, in 1794, even Robespierre himself was
guillotined for his bloody practices.[1]
Extracts from
[1].“Primary Source of World Cultures FRANCE”, Written by Michael A. Sommers.
The Rosen Publishing Group, New York, 2005.
[2]."Manners, Custom and Dress During the Middle Ages and During the Renaissance Period",
Written by Paul Lacroix. February 4, 2004 [EBook #10940]
Amazon eBay: BALLET COSTUME Ballet costumes constitute an
essential part of stage design and can be considered as a
visual record of a performance. They are often the only
survival of a production, representing a living imaginary
picture of the scene.
Renaissance and Baroque
The origins of ballet lie in the court spectacles of the Renaissance
in France and Italy, and evidence of costumes
specifically for ballet can be dated to the early fifteenth
century. Illustrations from this period show the importance
of masks and clothing for spectacles. Splendor at
court was strongly reflected in luxuriously designed ballet
costumes. Cotton and silk were mixed with flax woven
into semitransparent gauze.
From the beginning of the sixteenth century, public
theaters were being built in Venice (1637), Rome (1652),
Paris (1660), Hamburg (1678), and other important
cities. Ballet spectacles were combined in these venues
with processional festivities and masquerades, as stage
costumes became highly decorated and made from expensive
materials. The basic costume for a male dancer
was a tight-fitting, often brocaded cuirass, a short draped
skirt and feather-decorated helmets. Female dancers
wore opulently embroidered silk tunics in several layers
with fringes. Important components of the ballet dress
were tightly laced, high-heeled and wedged boots for
both dancers, which constituted characteristic footwear
for this period.
From 1550, classical Roman dress had a strong influence
on costume design: silk skirts were voluminous;
positioning of necklines and waistlines and the design of
hairstyles were based on the components of everyday
dress, although on the stage key details were often exaggerated.
Male dancers’ dresses were influenced by Roman
armor. Typical colors of ballet costumes ranged
from dark copper to maroon and purple. A more detailed
description of the theatrical dress in the Renaissance and
Baroque periods may be found in Lincoln Kirstein’s Four
Centuries of Ballet (1984, p. 34).
Seventeenth Century
From the seventeenth century onward, silks, satins, and
fabrics embroidered with real gold and precious stones
increased the level of spectacular decoration associated
with ballet costumes. Court dress remained the standard
costume for female performers while male dancers’ costumes
had developed into a kind of uniform embellished
with symbolic decoration to denote character or occupation;
for example, scissors represented a tailor.
The first Russian ballet performance was staged in
1675, and the Russians adopted European ballet designs.
Although costumes for male performers permitted complete
freedom of movement, heavy garments and supporting
structures for female dancers did not allow
graceful gestures. However, male dancers en travesti, often
wore knee-long skirts. The luxuriously decorated costumes
of this period reflected the glory of the court;
BALLET COSTUME
114 E N C Y C L O P E D I A O F C L O T H I N G A N D F A S H I O N
Prima ballerina Anna Pavlova. Early ballerina skirts were
heavy, voluminous affairs that severely restricted the dancer’s
movements. Fortunately, by the early twentieth century, skirts
were raised to the knees to showcase pointe work. © ARCHIVO
ICONOGRAFICO, S.A./CORBIS. REPRODUCED BY PERMISSION.
details of dresses and silhouettes were exaggerated to be
visible and identifiable to spectators viewing from a distance.
Eighteenth Century
From the early eighteenth century, European ballet was
centered in the Paris Opéra. Stage costumes were still
very similar in outline to the ones in ordinary use at
Court, but more elaborate. Around 1720, the panier, a
hooped petticoat, appeared, raising skirts a few inches off
the ground. During the reign of Louis XVI, court dress,
ballet costumes, and fashionable architectural design incorporated
decorative rococo prints and ornamental garlands.
Flowers, flounces, ribbons, and lace emphasized
this opulent feminine style, as soft pastel tones in citron,
peach, pink, azure, and pistachio dominated the color
range of stage costumes. Female dancers in male roles
became popular, and, after the French Revolution in 1789
in particular, male costumes reflected the more conservative
and sober Neoclassical style, which dominated the
design of everyday fashionable dress. However, massive
wigs and headdresses still restricted the mobility of
dancers. In the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries,
Russian ballet and European ballet developed similarly
and were often considered an integral part of the opera.
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