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Marie Antoinette
King Louis XVI &
Queen Marie Antoinette
Life History   Part 1  Part 2

The fourteen year old archduchess was blond hair, blue eyed, and vivacious. Young Marie Antoinette arrival in France Versailles palace was the signal for general rejoicing. The nation was in the grip of a depression at the time but Louis spared no expense to make the royal wedding an occasion that would show the world
that France could surpass everyone in public magnificence. A great display of fireworks was given in Paris so that hundreds of thousands of ordinary people would be able to celebrate, but 130 people were trampled to death in the panic and stampede that occurred at the end of the spectacle. Other things had gone wrong from the beginning. The royal bridegroom suffered from phimosis (contraction of the orifice of the prepuce), and until the royal


surgeon corrected this condition in 1777, he was unable to have intercourse with his queen. The frustrated, childless Marie Antoinette queen of France indulged her passion for luxuries and renaissance queen costume. She spent a fortune on her favorite residence, the Petit Trianon; on her stable of three hundred horses; on her sessions at the gaming tables; and on her clothes, which cost 100,000 livres a year. (Even great titled heads lived for a year on half that sum; fifty thousand livres per annum was a lavish income for the times.) She loved jewelry: her earrings of clusters of pearl shaped diamonds from Charles Boehmer, the crown jeweler, cost 400,000 livres; her diamond bracelets cost 100, 000 livres apiece.


The Austrian ambassador at the French court tried to warn against these extravagances. "I did not conceal from Her Majesty," he wrote to Maria Theresa, "that under the present economic conditions it would have been wiser to avoid such a tremendous expenditure. But she could not resist - although she handled the purchases carefully, keeping them secret from the king. " In any case no one could deny that the new queen looked utterly radiant in her magnificent clothes fashion and jewels. "No woman ever carried her head better, and it was so set upon her shoulders that every movement she made was instinct with grace and nobility," wrote a perceptive official who was also a historian, Senac de Meilhan. "Her gait was stately, yet light... and there was in her person a still rarer quality-the union of grace and of the most imposing dignity."


She had been brought up in the relative austerity of the Hapsburg household in Vienna, but now she seemed to be "drunk with the extravagance of this country," as her brother Joseph reported after a visit to palace of Versailles. At least part of the problem was that she was impulsively generous, rewarding her favorite ladies in waiting with immense sums of money from the royal treasury. The princesse de Lamballe became superintendent of the queen's household at a salary of 150,000 livres. The impoverished comtesse de Polignac received 400,000 livres to pay her debts and 800,000 livres as a dowry for her daughter, as well as a dukedom for her husband.
But the queen was also eager to accomplish great projects of her own and to leave her mark on the great cumulative monument of Versailles. Marie Antoinette princess of Versailles palace, A woman of energy and taste, she set to work creating gardens with artificial ruins, grottoes, rose of Versailles, Versailles fountains, cascades, pavilions the newly fashionable "delight in disorder" of the English garden. She built an imitation peasant village, the Hameau, where she could while away the hours in rustic simplicity playing milkmaid. But the garden party she gave to inaugurate the Trianon gardens cost 200,000 livres. She had dressed the band of her Guards regiment in Chinese costumes for the occasion; a thousand Chinese lanterns provided the illumination, and a troupe of actors from the Comedie Francaise played charades for her guests on an open air stage. All this, unfortunately, cost more and more money at a time when the French government's finances were in perpetual disarray. On the eve of the Revolution, the royal family's household staff of 15,000 people, both military and civilian, accounted for about 13 percent of the total national budget - and interest payments on the national debt had risen to 300 million livres per year: a sum so great as to be meaningless, and the deficit rose annually. Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette eventually had children, and the future of the dynasty seemed assured.   Part 1

Extract from “Treasures of The World The French Kings”, Written by Frederic V. Grunfeld. Select Books, A Division of Time-Life Books, B.V. Amsterdam. Great Britain: 1983.

Marie-Antoinette, a film on the feminine condition In her third movie, Marie-Antoinette Sofia Coppola continues her exploration of the condition of women. She praises femininity and places it at the heart of this condition. From the very beginning of the movie, it appears that this film maker has opted to portray a very feminine Marie-Antoinette, a young woman who has an inner beauty that is revealed by the emotions she shows and by her easy spontaneity and generosity. The teenage girl (played by Kirsten Dunst, an actress who also played in Sofia Coppola’s first movie, Virgin Suicide, which addressed the issues of adolescent girls) arrives in France in April 1770 at the age of fourteen is radiant and full of promise. But instead of inspiring admiration, she is rejected for being Austrian, and later on she is despised for not becoming a mother quickly enough and for having become an extravagant woman. Moreover, the film strongly suggests that she is rejected because of her blooming femininity which provokes jealousy. As Sofia Coppola remarked in an interview promoting the film1, her main interest was the character of Marie- Antoinette, not the historical context. Thus, the film Marie-Antoinette is primarily a reflection on the different ages in a woman’s life. The rock music the film director chose signifies the rebellion of a young lady who is still an adolescent and who experiences many difficulties in achieving the aim her mother assigned her (to be a good wife) and the obligation the French court expects of her (to give birth, and quickly, to a male heir to the throne). The attacks and pressure she experiences are staggering and the devices she resorts to in order to resist them have a very contemporary ring: women (and teenagers) often find solace in music, parties, games, and spending money on clothes to escape the many pressures of daily life. Marie-Antoinette’s innocence is such that it creates a startling contrast with the members of the French royal court who welcome her. She resembles a Jean Jacques Rousseau’s character: as a young foreigner, she is looked at as though she embodies the “bon sauvage” in a state of nature. On her arrival from Austria she is literally stripped of everything she has: a major transformation of her identity is imposed on her when she has to go through a tent in the woods where all her Austrian court clothes are replaced by French ones. The transformation is underlined by a strong contrast between her simple blue Austrian dress and the luxurious French dress and is forced to relinquish her little dog. This contrast is reinforced when she first discovers Versailles. The spectator is invited to discover it with her in a long sequence shot. At first everyone in court is delighted by the presence of such a beautiful princess and everyone scrutinizes her very closely both in order to admire and criticise her, much as they would scrutinize a new object or toy. But all too soon political power and social organisation –which is created by men and organised for men’s benefit– puts her femininity on trial. “Feminine beauty”, which is symbolized in the film, as in a painting, by her carnation, by her elegant bearing suggesting the delicacy of her intentions, is a notion which is quite foreign to the categories of political power. Yet it has everything to do with the transmission of royal power which only needs a mother to give birth to a boy who will inherit the power from his father. One quickly understands that, as a beautiful woman, she will fail to achieve what is expected from her: to give birth to a son. “Beauty” is a cultural notion and it is a source of inspiration for artists. She, as a young woman, does not have to be beautiful to be used as a means of exchange, a way to seal a diplomatic alliance. “Beauty” as a notion is not significant to understand a period of history but it helps to understand why the Queen Marie Antoinette concentrated so much hatred upon herself. At first, because the newly-crowned French king, Louis the XVIth, seems uninspired by her teenage beauty and does not know what to do with it. His seeming incapacity to do his husbandly duty (he cannot sleep in the same bed and runs away every night) inspires curiosity and makes courtiers and others (including her mother, the empress of Austria, who writes her terrible letters about it) think that it is Marie-Antoinette’s fault. Their lack of a sex life provokes nasty pamphlets which imply that the queen is somehow responsible for the impotence of her husband. Her beauty inspires pornographic pamphlets suggesting that she lives a life of debauchery. She does not feel the need to answer to these accusations. Not only can she not become the mother everyone insists that she become, but she is also suspected of draining power from her husband, the King. The scene of the masked ball symbolises a turning point in the sexual life of the royal couple. The masks enable freedom of speech and both the queen and the king find themselves in situations where they can speak about their desires. Marie-Antoinette is seduced by Count Fersen and Louis is told that his wife is very desirable. After the ball, Marie-Antoinette turns into a full-fledged French woman, accepts the ways of the French court and the extraordinary magnificence of Versailles with all the social constraints and all the expenses it implies.

 


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John Galliano's Antoinette renaissance dress costume tells an unexpected story. True to the architecture of eighteenth century court royal costume, Antoinette victorian gown of renaissance costume features tantalizing décolletage, victorian ball gown, a rigidly corseted waist, a ladder or échelle of flirty bows on the bodice, and a froth of flounced skirts inflated by petticoats and hoops. Yet, curiously, Antoinette royal costume and what they meant to the people around her receive little extensive notice in Goodman’s volume, except in a few brilliant passages by Pierre Saint Amand. Less ostentatious but equally novel were the saucy, unstructured chemise Antoinette dresses of renaissance costume clothing that the Queen came to favor as a reaction against the stiff hoops and whalebone stays of standard court wear. Marie Antoinette’s love affair with ladies fashion clothes, pay close attention to the vagaries of Antoinette costumes.
Ref: Queen Of Fashion by Weber, Caroline

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